Automotive Primer vs. Kilz

What kind of paint are you using?

I am no expert but Kilts is really made for latex based paint. If you are spraying your colors with automotive paint (or even spray can stuff) you really should be using an epoxy based automotive primer. Also clear coats in light layers really help to strengthen the paint job. I have been using the low to mid level omni line of PPG which is at a great price for the value. Since using this paint I have not had any or very little issues with paint and paint chips etc.

Ed , I use Evercoat’s dura build gray premium high build acrylic primer surfacer. IT is designed to be a little heavier that your typical primer and fills very well like kilts. It also sands very nice as well.

The downside is that it must be thinned and sprayed with an HVLP sprayer. This in combination with Aeropoxy lightweight filler makes for a killer smooth finish. plus this paint is made for automotive paints so it sticks much better (no chipping).

All paints jobs (good or bad) whether on a car or a rocket always go back to the paint prep and materials used. 98% of the time of a good paint job is spent in prep before the color goes on.

Now that being said I only use auto paint on bigger projects. Rockets that are not going to fly as much or just are big and easier to paint. Then it is worth it to get out the HVLP sprayer and take the time to mix spray and clean up a few times (several thin coats). On smaller rockets that are going to fly more and get more wear and drug around I just use spray can primer and spray can paint. Its cheap and easy and does not take a lot of time.

Mr ed wrote

One thing that has really been bad this year is my rockets’ tendency to chip paint. No matter how good the finish or surface prep, that chipped paint can really be a disappointment, especially when it’s not from a flight

Has anybody tried Polyurethane Paint.
If I remember right, I couldnt even get in an automotive paint store.
I bought it at a Boat Building supply house in Denver. It was expensive (lot more than enamel) but I wanted someting good on my Jet Boat.
The first catalized Enamel paint job didnt last long.
The Polyurethane was a 2 part paint and it was some Bad @#% Stuff! (wear that resparater) It even had its own thinner (or somthing) for cleaning the gun. I sold the boat shortly after so I dont know how it held up. But it looked and appeared bullit proof.
A lot of people talk about Polyurethane clear coats, but this was the paint itself! If I remember right it had good filling qualities too. I think the guy said some people would brush it on with a brush and it would come out smoooooth. 💡 Doing a rocket in it would not be as expensive as doing that boat!

Scotte

I personally use the low-end PPG paint. The clear-coat is a two part paint and they have a primer that is two part, but the paint itself is just thinned with reducer and sprayed. Typically it is in the vicinity of $30-$40 a pint and thins 3:1 with reducer before spraying.

The longer I’m in rocketry, the less inclined I am to actually paint rockets because I hate putting all that work into a finish only to have it chipped and scratched before it even flies due to handling damage. I’m leaning more and more in the direction of Mr. Wilke’s befuddlement at the concept of paint.

Warren

A little automotive paint store right on the south end of Main Street in Longmont. Can’t remember the name of it, but it’s in what used to be a house, South of 1st and north of Ken Pratt on the west side. They gave me a lot of helpful info when I told them I had absolutely no knowledge of what I was doing and had a decent HVLP paint gun and wanted to learn.

Warren