- This topic has 24 replies, 12 voices, and was last updated 14 years, 10 months ago by
Ed Dawson.
Ed Dawson.-
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pmscientist
I’m about to begin my first all glass project and am wondering what would be an appropriate setup for cutting glass tubes would be. The L jig w/razor blade just won’t cut it for this (pun intended 🙂 ).
I am considering a hand miter box saw. Something along the lines of this: http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/nobex-proman-miter-saw.aspx w/a 32tpi blade. Would that work for both convolute and filament wound?
I’ve also thought about making a jig w/mounting for a dremel or possibly a jig saw. Any thoughts on abrasive vs. carbide/diamond blades with those methods?
Of course, any other experiences/ideas/suggestions are most welcome.
Thank you!
Kevin B
Bruce R. Schaefer
Actually, Dremel has great diamond blades for this… unless you can be-friend Mike Konshak, who has a cutter that will take care of any diameter of f’glass you have, dead even. Check with our friend, Slipstick, for that. Glass is the only way to go if you want a solid, durable rocket. 😉 Don’t go filiament wound, it’ll snap on you. Stick with convulute. Period.
edward
A wet tile saw works wonders – I have one setup in a table so I can rest the tube against stops and rotate it to cut. I’ve always had dead even cuts also.
Edward
SCOTT EVANS
Kevin
I dont know where your at, but.
If you need the use of a power Miter saw. (chop saw in slang) Me, and a coulple of others probably, have one. Fast, strait and no non-sense. 🙂 You just need to no where to make the cuts. I have cut 6″ CF with it.Scott e
James Russell
Same here, I use a 10″ miter saw for most of what I do.
Bruce R. Schaefer
See, that’s the thing about this Web site and club… there is no ONE way to do anything. We all find things that work, and fly with it. Done deal. 😉
John A. Wilke
A masonry blade (one of the cheapest, by the way) does WONDERS… Convolute cuts cleaner than filament and it sands easier, too – just in case you need to square things up.
With any of the above — make sure you cut outside, get yourself upwind, etc. That dust is nothing to mess with!
Ken Plattner
I use a 10″ miter saw with an abrasive blade and connect the shop vac to the back of the saw for dust collection.
pmscientist
Wow, that’s alot of good advice. I might have to hit Mike up, gotta check in with him anyway. I had thought about a chop saw, but was worried a 10″ wouldn’t get 4″ tube, and a 12″ is a bit much. Sounds like the specs allow for more error than I thought. I like the tile saw idea too. I actually read John Coker’s write up on using one, but don’t have room for a proper setup (unless my wife is ok with not using the garage :lol:).
That’s interesting to hear about filament wound. Too bad I already purchased that type. Is it strong in the axial direction, but not as strong w/respect to side impacts? Maybe I’ll fill the fin can w/expanding foam, and replace the body tubes if/when they break. Will know better next time. I am putting a tailcone on, hopefully that will protect the can during landings well enough.
I hear you on the dust, neither glass nor epoxy dust is good for the lungs. For cutting and sanding G10 fins I always go outside and use a mask. Speaking of which, I do have a combination belt/disk sander if anyone would like to use it.
James Russell
FYI, the 10″ miter just barely makes it through 4″ tubing, you need to push down hard to get the tube to compress a little to go all the way through. If I did not already have a 10″ saw I would get the 12″.
pmscientist
Bruce R. Schaefer
edward
SCOTT EVANS
James Russell
John A. Wilke
Ken Plattner- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.