- This topic has 70 replies, 9 voices, and was last updated 17 years, 1 month ago by
James Russell.
James Russell.-
Posts
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Conway Stevens
Scotte, First off how many layers are you wanting to do? I normally do 2 to 3 layers max of 6oz glass. Then I even do 1 to 2 layers of 2oz on top of that. The 6oz glass (or 9oz can be used) is the strength portion. The 2 oz glass is a finishing veil for it so you don’t have to fill pits from the heavier glass cross hatch. Now here is a tip. take an edge of the thicker glass and tack it across the length of the tube strait using some Cyanoacrylate. Let that set up. Then wrap the tube tightly in glass with both layers. Or if your using sleeve you dont have to tack it down. Just slip 2 layers of sleeve over the tube. Then on the tube wrap it with the layers of the heavy layered glass so lets say 2 wraps of 6oz. be sure to tack the starting edge in place to the tube like I mentioned before. Then I use a slow setting epoxy from Aero Epoxy or Mr Fiber glass or even west. Use the right ratio of catalyst to resin. I also must mention I use a pvc tube or mandrill so to speak to support my tube horizontally and making it easy to turn over. I then using a brush or roller apply the epoxy to the outside of the glass and using a plastic/rubber body spreader force it into the glass and the tube spreading it evenly. After its been applied I then wrap (sometimes with some help.) it with the 2oz cloth and make it nice and tight all wrinkle free. I will then add a bit more epoxy smoothing it out. I wrap it in the mylar sheet nice and tight. Then I use some duct tape or shrink wrap or an elastic strap from one end to the other (By the way a 2nd set of hands here is good to if possible as it will keep it tight and conformed right) Let it stand on end and cure up or head slightly and cure then unwrap. It adds just as much strength as most any method of glassing an airframe thats phenolic or cardboard will. But with a bonus of a very nice finish.
SCOTT EVANS
Cyanoacrylate
CA??
I did one layer at a time, and Im only doing two. I did second layer last night. 6 oz for both. Good enough for first time. Im going to skip 2 oz cloth this time and just sand a couple layers of primer, its really pretty fast on a tube.
Conway, you didnt say anything about fabric between the mylar and ducttape. I use some to help soak up exess resin, and to help keep me clean, from the resin that gets outside the mylar. Have not opened the second layer yet.Conway Stevens
Yes CA.
No I do not put anything between the glass cloth thats been soaked in epoxy on the tube and the mylar. I just wrap it and compress it. I put something on the ground to catch the excess epoxy thats being forced out.
SCOTT EVANS
Yes CA.
No I do not put anything between the glass cloth thats been soaked in epoxy on the tube and the mylar. I just wrap it and compress it. I put something on the ground to catch the excess epoxy thats being forced out.
No, not between the glass and mylar, between the mylar and tape to soak up exess resin. I think it also helps keep a constant state of compression.
Its kinda fluffy material I got from aircraft spruce for soaking up resin that comes though the poris teflon.Warren B. Musselman
mylar is non-porous (unless you buy special perf’d mylar) so you don’t use anything in between the mylar and the tape. You ONLY use non-perfed mylar on the finish layer. All underlying layers should be wrapped in peel-ply or perforated release fabric, then wrapped with breather and then v-bagged or wrapped with mylar and then tape. You have to have something for the epoxy to soak into or you have to make sure the epoxy gets forced out the ends to drip off on the floor.
Warren
SCOTT EVANS
mylar is non-porous (unless you buy special perf’d mylar) so you don’t use anything in between the mylar and the tape. You ONLY use non-perfed mylar on the finish layer. All underlying layers should be wrapped in peel-ply or perforated release fabric, then wrapped with breather and then v-bagged or wrapped with mylar and then tape. You have to have something for the epoxy to soak into or you have to make sure the epoxy gets forced out the ends to drip off on the floor.
Warren
Yea, I opened them a little bit ago and all though not bad, still have some places to repair. Not 100% but Im still going to use the tubes. Although I have some bubles to sand out and fill, they are many times stronger than if I had done nothing at all. I have the poris teflon, whats peel-ply. I didnt use it last night, I just put the mylar up against the wetted fiber glass.
Ken Plattner
Peel-Ply is a dacron fabric. Remember that white nylon like fabric I showed you? It’s used to create a rough surface so subsequent layers can adhere better. It’s porous and allows the epoxy to soak through. When the epoxy is cured, you just “peel” it off.
Ken
SCOTT EVANS
Peel-Ply is a dacron fabric. Remember that white nylon like fabric I showed you? It’s used to create a rough surface so subsequent layers can adhere better. It’s porous and allows the epoxy to soak through. When the epoxy is cured, you just “peel” it off.
Ken
Ya ken I remember. It wouldint really be any better than the Poris Teflon would it? I could try some. Where did you get it ?
Doug Gerrard
It wouldint really be any better than the Poris Teflon would it? Where did you get it ?
Scott, it really depends of the surface you want. As Ken pointed out the Peel Ply leaves a rough surface and is intended when you want to do subsequent gluing. The pink porous Teflon leave a smoother finish. And in my opinion when vacuum bagging the peel ply removes more excess epoxy than the Teflon. I still use both, but it depends on the final application. For the final vacuum bagging of my fins, I’ll do both at the same time. I’ll use peel ply on the through the wall tabs and fillets and porous Teflon on the rest of the fin that will be finished. That way I get the rougher surface for the glue joint and a smother surface where I need it. Here is a link where I get my supplies http://www.cstsales.com/release_film.html Of course I’m stuck with mail order.
Doug
SCOTT EVANS
So Mr. X
You were not kidding about aerosleaves being a little slower then the other guys. 😉
Conway Stevens
SCOTT EVANS
Warren B. Musselman
Ken Plattner
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