Cutting glass tube options?

[John A. WilkeParticipant]

That’s interesting to hear about filament wound. Too bad I already purchased that type. Is it strong in the axial direction, but not as strong w/respect to side impacts?

Both filament and convolute are way more than strong enough in all directions. I’ve flown many minimum diameter M’s on 75mm and many a J570 minimum diameter shot on 38mm. I’ve never been able to fold the stuff.

The real differences are that the convolute drills very, very cleanly vs. the filament wound and if you have to square up an end – for example, if your cut is off by a bit – it is easily done with convolute… it sands like a dream.

I’ve worked a lot with both. It is convolute for me!

[James Russell]

Filament wound is a little heavier then the convolute. I will also add that I have seen both zipper but the convolute seemed to zipper easier and with less force.

[Warren B. MusselmanModerator]

I have an old 12″ chop saw I use only for cutting tubing. Have a masonry cut-off blade in it and it works perfectly. If you’re relatively nearby, feel free to contact me and I’ll happily invite you up to cut your tubing.

By the way, convolute is a dream to work with compared to filament-wound. Stronger too.

[John A. WilkeParticipant]

Filament wound is a little heavier then the convolute. I will also add that I have seen both zipper but the convolute seemed to zipper easier and with less force.

I can honestly say I have never zippered an airframe. Not cardboard, not phenolic, not glass. I see it all the time, but somehow I have avoided it.

Perhaps it is because I use such L-O-N-G shock cords?

[Bruce R. Schaefer]

I can honestly say I have never zippered an airframe. Not cardboard, not phenolic, not glass. I see it all the time, but somehow I have avoided it.

Perhaps it is because I use such L-O-N-G shock cords?

You lucky son of a gun, my friend. 😆 Actually, the only zipper I’ve done so far was on phenolic–and as always on a long shock cord–though they DID get longer in time and experience, my L3 harness was 100′ (convolute glass). A bit too much? Of course. But by then I was burned one too manys times–only one zipper, but I like to be not only safe but ridiculously safe. The only filiament I ever used just crushed and was torn to smithereens. But then again, I use a LOT of black powder, like a friend I know, who sets off car alarms in his neighborhood. 🙂

[bryans]

Kev, while new to layups, i can say that for solid glass I like convolute too… filament wound is a severe pain in the butt on couplers or any point where your rocket separates. it also stinks on things like altimeter key holes/vents, because sometimes your snag a filament just a little with your drill bit, and you dont wind up with a round hole. Always have to hit it with CA or epoxy right after any machining so that you dont wind up with any splinters.

Get some filler putty designed for glass/plastics either way. I do fine with Bondo, but thats ’cause there was some sitting around.

I use a 10″ mitre saw as well for all kinds of things, would recommend you borrow use of one or troll craigslist for a bargain 12″. Also when cutting, if you have a wet-dry vac, suck up some water with it and/or wet your filter before using with glass… helps the fine particles stick (to anything) rather than sneak out.

[James Russell]

But then again, I use a LOT of black powder, like a friend I know, who sets off car alarms in his neighborhood. 🙂

Who did this? They should have a little more respect for the people they live around, at lest give them a count down 😆

[Steve JensenParticipant]

I use a cheap ($59.00) tile saw with a diamond blade ($20.00) both from Harbor Freight. Works well wet, as I do not like FG dust.

I do have a large disk sander to square the edges.

I know someone who uses a table saw with a carbide blade too.

[Bruce R. Schaefer]

Who did this? They should have a little more respect for the people they live around, at lest give them a count down

I bet he did. And, I’m sure after that, his neighbors learned to “duck and cover.” 😉 BTW, I think Mike Konshak’s saw was used for cutting steel tubes for his robots. Works on G-10 as well.

[SCOTT EVANS]

Same here, I use a 10″ miter saw for most of what I do.

Mines 12″ Buddy! 8)

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