Mad Dog Construction.

[MikeSModerator]

I have had two kittens growing. One with many problems. After
two months I now am getting back to building. At last.

The Mad Dog I won at MHM is going to be a great rocket.

I have looked around trying to find the best adhesive for construction.

I emailed the manufacture but have heard nothing yet.

What is the best epoxy to use?

Does cure time matter?
It is not soaking into the fiberglass, or is it?

Thanks Mike

[Warren B. MusselmanModerator]

I personally have used a lot of West Systems epoxy, others here use Aeropoxy. One reason I use West Systems is that you don’t need a curing oven. Some of the Aeropoxy’s do require a curing oven.

Hobby epoxy doesn’t seem up to the task from my perspective. Others may disagree.

Warren

[sserell]

I have been VERY impressed with Performance Rocketry’s ?proprietary? epoxy that is a black graphite composite that is stable at 500+ temps. It come as the epoxy with the mongoose kits but can also be ordered separate. I used it on a minimum diameter project that held the fins on rock stable at Mach 2 speeds with no tip to tip overlay. Plus it lays up and sand down beautifully smooth, with no curing oven. May be a bit more product than your looking for but blows away everything else I have seen out there. -S

[new2hprParticipant]

Just be sure to really rough up the bonding areas. 80 grit or so.

Ken

[Chris LaPanse]

Hobby epoxy would work fine if you wanted (15min probably – the 5min cures before it can really soak in, though it won’t really soak into the fiberglass at all regardless), although I prefer West System or Pro-Set. They’re more versatile, stronger, and actually cheaper per ounce. If you use the West or similar laminating resin, get some fillers as well (colloidal silica and milled glass are good for areas where strength is critical, and microballoons are nice when strength doesn’t matter as much but you want it to be easy to sand). As said above though, the main trick with bonding non-porous surfaces (such as the fiberglass tubing and fins) is to sand the heck out of the surfaces to be bonded with rough (80 grit or rougher, preferably) sandpaper. You want a good rough surface for the glue to grip on to.

[Anonymous]

Regarding Mike’s “soaking” question, I think Mike is asking if the epoxy will soak into the airframe – it will not, like it does on the outer layer of phenolic. Mike, if I mis-read your question, I apologize.

I’ve never used 5 minute, except for field repairs… but I do know some impatient builders who use it exclusively. For a rocket like this, with through-the-wall fins, etc. I’d go w/ 30 minute…

[MikeSModerator]

I did not think so.

We at work on occasion use some LORD Fusor products.
(www.lord.com)It is pretty wild, pretty strong.

The metel fusor product is amazing.

The 127EZ/128EZ . 147/148 . 152/153 . 201EZ says.
and others,
Substrates
Bonding of SMC, fiberglass, carbon fiber and
other plastics to itself and primed metal.

If it works like some of the other products, it should be
pretty good. I like the words ‘bond’ and ‘Fusor’

Not cheep. $40.00 to $50.00 for a large tube. Not sure
the price of the smaller more manageable ones.

[James Russell]

JB Weld is what I like on the inner fillets and then West Systems or epoxy of your choice but the longer the cure the better.

[Author]

Posts