Forums › Knowledge Base › Electronics › testing altimeters
- This topic has 24 replies, 7 voices, and was last updated 17 years, 9 months ago by
Bruce R. Schaefer.
-
AuthorPosts
-
December 22, 2007 at 10:44 pm #46177
SCOTT EVANS
Bruce
You should get one of those 20,000 btu heaters(220 electric) like I have.
Keeps the old 2car at about 60-65 degrees.scotte
December 22, 2007 at 10:53 pm #46178Bruce R. Schaefer
Sweet. Warm enough to cure epoxy. I have an electric heater, but not THAT strong! 220? Wow. That’d do it. 8)
December 22, 2007 at 11:06 pm #46179SCOTT EVANS
I rewired an entire house, plus some other stuff.
Wheres your panel?
Some times the panels right in the garage.
Getting 220 is easy then!Scotte
December 22, 2007 at 11:39 pm #46180Bruce R. Schaefer
We’re going to sell this house in the next few years, and I don’t want to upgrade anything at this point. I can live with hurrying in Feb & Mar to get things done. Panel’s outside. Don’t wanna go there. 🙄
December 23, 2007 at 12:10 am #46181SCOTT EVANS
Yes
The hard part is getting the wire from point “A” to point “B” and being outside makes it a little harder.
BUT BRUCE!!!! 220 in a garage ISNT AN UPGRADE!!!!
ITS SURVIVAL!!!!! 😉Seriously though, all that glassing I did, in the last 2 or 3 weeks, I did in the garage. No real place to do it inside. I have some epoxied couplers and that ebay sitting in front of the heater right now.
Hoping to fly it all in January providing it all checks out and the weather is decent.December 23, 2007 at 12:20 am #46182Bruce R. Schaefer
Very nice, Scott. I know your altimeter will work and you’ll nail L2! Before the thread police come in, we better get back on topic. 😉
December 25, 2007 at 9:14 am #46183slipstick
Any body have any experiance testing altimeters? The instructions says use a tube on the baro senser and draw a vacume. Joe told me some in the club, have some neet ways of testing them. ??? Food saver? 😉
Scott e
I bought two used RRC2X’s and had the same concern, not so much for the accuracy, as I think that is hardwired in, but whether they were working at all, not just for an altimeter reading as well as the deployment set points. These are the older thru-hole component types.
I put LEDs with pigtails (from Radio shack – 12V) on the deployment connectors, one green and one red, attached the battery, then sealed it up in my avbay. It has a 1/4″ dia hole on each end. The mach delay was set to zero. Drogue at apogee, main at 800ft.
I slid it into my upper airframe tube which has the nose cone on it and is unpainted G10 (which is transparant enough to see LED’s inside of it). I hadn’t drilled any bleed holes in it yet.
When I put it in as far as I could and could still grab the quick-link, I put a piece of tap over the hole on the end that I was holding.
I yanked the avbay creating a suction in the upper body cavity, and then slowly brought it out the rest of the way out of the tube.
I saw the apogee deployment LED fire right after the jerk, followed by the main deployment. The beeps indicated that I hit 1286 ft.
I did this several times and got up to over 8000 ft. Since I have redundant altimeters, I tested them individually, otherwise I couldn’t keep the lights straight. I never got around to testing them together to see how close they were to each other.
I’m pretty sure at least one of these will do the job if the other fails.
December 25, 2007 at 1:09 pm #46184SCOTT EVANS
I was thinking about it yesterday. I Have a 3″ Rocket(not much room)
In our redundent alt. ejection systems Ken had 2 Powder cups, Mike has 2 Powder cups, I have 2 Powder cups. If your testing ejection charges and getting the charge so 1 cup will work. Wouldnt 2 cups going off at the same time be too much??? Why not put both matches into 1 cup? 🙄
That might help solve some of my issues of room in a 3″ body. 🙂December 25, 2007 at 5:06 pm #46185Warren B. Musselman
ModeratorIn practice, you’ll find that it’s pretty difficult to get two barometric altimeters to fire at the same time. Aside from sensor tolerances, altimeters like the RRC2 family just don’t have the resolution or precision to fire at the same altitude. They’re 8 bit devices which on the 25K model means that the LSB is +/- 97.5 feet. The 40K version is +/1 156.25 feet.
My 4″ bird was originally two RRC2X altimeters and there is probably as much as a second of difference between the two altimeters when they fire the charges.
Besides, if your charges are a bit wimpy (something that’s happened to me), the first one will pop your shear pins and kick the nose cone, the second will push the laundry out.
Warren
December 25, 2007 at 5:13 pm #46186slipstick
Scott,
I’m too new at this to take anything I say as Gospel, but I started my design with just one cup because of space reasons. The other location held an in-line terminal block.
In later discussion with folks it became obvious that to get full redundancy I needed separate cups for the two igniters, rather than two igniters into one cup.
How I understand it is, you set the 1st main deployment at a higher elevation with your standard charge. The backup charge has a bigger kick and is set at a lower altitude.
If the 1st charge goes off as planned the nose cone separates successfully you are OK, then when the 2nd charge goes off, it just blows out into the open airstream.
If the the 1st charge fails to go off or is not strong enough to pop the cone or shear the pins, 200 feet later the 2nd more powerful charge goes off to blast the cone and its innards away. And even If it’s way too much and you’ve hurt the part of the airframe, at least you have deployment and you’ve saved the rocket.
So in short, there should not be an over pressure by two charges going off at the same time.
My original design:
My modification:
Some of the Innards:
-
AuthorPosts
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.